$11,000
Average water damage claim
Most starts as a slow undetected leak
10%
Of homes have leaks
Wasting 90+ gallons per day — almost all fixable
50 yrs
Copper pipe lifespan
In ideal conditions — real-world is often less
$200
Typical running toilet fix
The single most wasteful plumbing problem
Pipe Materials
The pipe material in your home determines your maintenance concerns, failure modes, and what repairs cost.
Most homes have more than one pipe material — supply lines in one material, drain lines in another, with older sections never replaced alongside newer repairs. Knowing what you have tells you what to watch for.
Copper
The residential standard for decades and still excellent when properly installed. Copper is durable, naturally antimicrobial, and has a long track record. Its failure modes are pinhole leaks from aggressive water chemistry and corrosion at fittings. In acidic water environments, copper can pit and develop pinhole leaks within 10–15 years.
PEX
The current standard for new residential construction. Flexible, freeze-resistant, and significantly less expensive than copper. PEX doesn't corrode and has fewer fittings — a common leak point. Its long-term track record is still developing but early indications are very positive.
CPVC
Used for hot and cold supply lines. More brittle than copper or PEX and can crack from physical impact or temperature stress. Common in homes built in the 1970s–1990s.
Galvanized steel
Found in homes built before the 1960s. Galvanized pipe corrodes from the inside out — mineral deposits and rust accumulate over decades, progressively restricting flow. Reduced water pressure throughout the house is the telltale sign that replacement is overdue.
Cast iron drain lines
Found in older homes. Extremely durable — many cast iron drain systems installed 80–100 years ago are still functioning. The failure mode is rust and corrosion, which develops slowly over decades.
Slow leaks cause the most damage
System Components
Your plumbing system has two sides: supply and drain. Each has its own failure modes.
The main shutoff valve
Controls all water entering the home. Know exactly where it is before you need it. In an emergency, minutes matter. A shutoff valve that hasn't been operated in years may be stuck open — test it annually by closing and reopening it fully. A valve that won't close needs replacement before you need it in an emergency.
Supply lines
Carry pressurized water to every fixture and appliance. The supply lines you can see — under sinks, behind toilets, at washing machine connections — should be inspected annually. Braided stainless steel supply lines are more reliable than rubber hoses. Rubber washing machine hoses should be replaced every 5 years regardless of visible condition — they fail without warning and can discharge hundreds of gallons per hour.
Drain lines
Carry wastewater out of the home. Drain line problems are typically slow — root infiltration, grease buildup, or deteriorating pipe — rather than sudden. Slow drains throughout the house (not just one fixture) indicate a main line issue rather than a fixture clog.
The water heater connection
One of the highest-probability leak points in the home. The supply line connections, the pressure relief valve discharge pipe, and the drain valve all deserve annual inspection. A dripping TPR valve is not normal — it indicates the valve is cycling, which means either water pressure or temperature is too high.
Fixture shutoffs
The individual valves under sinks and behind toilets. These are often not operated for years and can seize open. A shutoff valve that can't be closed is useless in a leak emergency. Test them annually by closing and reopening fully.
The camera inspection pitch
Failure Timeline
What happens to residential plumbing over time.
Plumbing system deterioration
New plumbing
Annual inspection of visible supply lines and fixture connections. Test main shutoff and fixture shutoffs annually. No significant failures expected in well-installed systems.
Early monitoring
Fixture shutoffs may be getting stiff. Washing machine hoses should have been replaced at least twice. Copper in aggressive water may show early pinhole leak signs.
Active assessment
Water heater likely approaching replacement. Main shutoff valve may not close fully. Any galvanized supply lines are overdue for replacement. Drain line root infiltration possible.
Full evaluation
Copper supply lines approaching end of expected lifespan. Cast iron drain lines in this age range warrant professional evaluation. Main line camera inspection recommended.
System evaluation
A full plumbing assessment by a licensed plumber is warranted. Galvanized or lead supply lines must be replaced. Cast iron drain integrity should be confirmed with camera inspection.
Inspection
What to check annually and what warrants a professional evaluation.
Under every sink
Look for moisture, staining, or active drips at supply line connections, drain connections, and the P-trap. Press on the cabinet floor — soft spots indicate past or ongoing water damage. Check that the shutoff valves turn freely.
Behind the toilet
Check the supply line connection at both the wall valve and the tank. A constantly running toilet often has a failed flapper — a $5 part that wastes thousands of gallons per year and is a straightforward DIY fix.
Washing machine connections
Pull the machine out enough to inspect both hot and cold supply hose connections. Look for bulging, cracking, or mineral deposits at the fittings. Replace rubber hoses every 5 years regardless of visible condition — they fail without warning.
Water heater
Check the supply line connections, the TPR valve discharge pipe, and the drain valve. Any dripping from the TPR valve warrants a plumber call. Puddles under the tank indicate the tank itself is failing.
Basement or crawl space
Walk the visible supply and drain lines. Look for active drips, staining, or mineral deposits that indicate a past or ongoing leak. Press on any wood near plumbing — soft spots indicate moisture damage.
Who to Call
How plumbing pricing works and what licensed means in this trade.
Plumbing requires a licensed plumber in most jurisdictions for anything beyond simple fixture repairs. Verify that any plumber you hire holds a current state plumbing license, not just a general contractor's license.
How plumbing is priced
Most plumbers charge either a flat rate per job or time and materials. Flat rate pricing is more predictable but can be significantly higher than T&M for simple jobs. Ask upfront which pricing model applies and get the estimate in writing before work begins.
Emergency premium
Plumbers charge significantly more for after-hours and weekend calls. Developing a relationship with a reliable plumber before an emergency — and knowing their after-hours number — is worth more than the cost of a routine service call.
Questions to ask any plumber before work begins
"Are you a licensed plumber in this state? Can I verify your license number?"
Unlicensed plumbing work can create code violations that surface at sale and void homeowner's insurance claims.
"Is this flat rate or time and materials, and what's the estimate?"
Know the pricing model before work starts. Ask what happens if the job takes longer than expected under T&M pricing.
"Does this repair require a permit?"
A plumber who dismisses permit requirements for work that legally requires one is creating compliance problems for you as the homeowner.
"What's causing this problem, not just what needs to be replaced?"
Understanding the root cause helps you evaluate whether the repair will actually solve the problem. A plumber who can only describe the symptom may not have diagnosed correctly.
"What warranty do you provide on this repair?"
One year on labor is standard. For major work like pipe replacement, ask specifically what's covered if the same problem recurs.